Joshua Tree

When I hopped into the car to make my way to the desert the next day, so many things were reminding me of Southern Ontario in the winter.  Roads were covered with sand and the wind was starting to form dunes in a few places.  Had I snapped a black and white photo, I could have fooled anyone into believing it was drifting snow.   And opposed to the rust holes and salt damage we see so frequently up north, most of the older cars in the town had a severe sand-blasted look. 

The drive from Palm Springs to the northern entrances of Joshua Tree is easy and takes no more than 30 minutes.  I had researched the Park extensively prior to the trip, looking for good trail running options and I found a lot online.  Still, I dropped into the Visitor Center to get the local opinion.  Without hesitation, the Ranger recommended that I start with the Boy Scout Trail and then make my way into the Wonderland of Rocks via the Willow Hole Trail which was going to be another short 3-4 mile run.  That would leave me plenty of time to try out something else in the afternoon.

Joshua Tree is remarkable.  Truly, truly remarkable.  While the vegetation gets the prime marquee, to me, it’s the geology of the park that makes it special.  I appreciate that the world is old and that, over time, countless events will shift, shape, bend and break the environment.  But that still doesn’t adequately explain what I saw.  Rocks have no business being arranged like they are in Joshua Tree.   Massive boulders should not be placed neatly on top of one another and remain that way for eons with the San Adreas Fault just miles to the west.

The composition of the Boy Scout Trail and the Willow Hole Trail is very much like the trails at Torrey Pines.  It’s all very granular sand, but much deeper than the coast.  Still, it’s pleasant to run on. 

The environment is absolutely distracting as the Boy Scout Trail teases you into the Wonderland of Rocks.  Lonely rock piles are scattered occasionally off to the north and a long, intimidating mountain flanks you to the south.  One can’t help but think that you’re being funneled down towards some unknown destination.   As it turns out, that’s exactly what’s happening as the Willow Hole Trail apparently ends at a seasonal waterhole.

Initially, the Trails were wide and simple to follow.  The odd wash opened up making the choice of direction a little more open to interpretation; however, it was pretty difficult to go wrong with the rocks gently guiding the way.  The situation changed a mile or so into the Willow Hole Trail though.   The trail really tightened up and the rocks started to loom over me like angry parents (not mine of course).  Scampering over boulders and squeezing through openings made the running a little more challenging and enjoyable at the same time.

I knew that the Willow Hole Trail did not have a marked end.  So when I came upon a bit of an opening that I couldn’t find my way out of, I figured I had found it and turned myself around.   The return trip started out pretty laissez-faire.  At one point, I hopped up on a boulder and laid back to relax and enjoy the desert.   By the time I got back to the Boy Scout Trail, I was feeling energized and really wanted to let the legs go for the last mile of the run.  So I hammered it.  Unfortunately, my Salomon running vest has seen better days and my GU gels kept bouncing out of the pockets.   My annoyance level had peaked the third time I had to stop and “leave no trace”.   Annoyance quickly changed to confusion though when, after getting going again, I happened upon this in the middle of the trail.  Apparently, I wasn’t the only animal in the park interested in sunning itself.

I had my first true “It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia” ohhhhhh sh1t moment.  Like I said, I was utterly and completely confused.  I had seen so many lizards throughout the run that a must’ve lulled myself into believing that that was all I was going to see.   So without thinking twice, I grabbed my phone and started snapping pics, getting closer and closer to determine whether there was a rattle on the end of it’s tail (there was). 

With the photo shoot over, my brain began working again and I thought, “what the hell am I supposed to do now”?  I’m no expert in the behaviors of rattlesnakes, so there was no way that I was going to just walk around it.

Thought one ... kick some sand in its direction.  That should get it going ... Fail.

Thought two ... throw a twig in front of it.  That should get it going ... Fail.

Thought three ... nice going idiot, you’ve probably just pissed it off.

Thought four ... he/she owns the trail.  Get off the trail, go into the brush and around it.

Thought five ... what in the hell is that?!  His/her friend slithered from one side of the trail to the place I was planning to walk.

Thought six ... I’m surrounded by f’ing rattlesnakes.  My brain exploded at that very moment.

I’m not sure how long I stood there dumfounded, but I eventually remembered that I had downloaded a Pest Control App on the night a rat terrorized my house.  So, I grabbed my phone again only to be disappointed that I had removed said app long ago ... though I doubt it had a setting for snakes.   With phone in hand, I started scrolling through my music, chose “Wrong” by the Archers of Loaf and did my best John Cusack, Say Anything impression in my last ditch, hail-mary attempt to secure myself safe passage.

To my shock, the snake actually started to move but it was taking its sweet ol’ time.  I looked down and noticed the whistle on my running vest so I began blowing madly into it.  The snake got going a little faster and I looked like a dweeb from Toronto who clearly had no business being anywhere but in the city or suburbs.

Eventually, the snake had made its way off the trail so I decided to make my move.  Initially, I planned to pass by it calmly and slowly.  But when its rattle started going, what was left of my melted brain went into hyper-drive and so too did my legs.   I covered that last half mile at a ferocious pace, jumped into my car and got out of dodge.

I am completely certain that I did EVERTYHING wrong with respect to how deal with an encounter with a rattlesnake (‘twas a Red Diamond Rattlesnake btw).  Looking back, I would have been completely safe just walking around it.  After-all, it wasn’t coiled so it wouldn’t have been able to strike out at me, but my method of “making a lot of noise to scare away an animal with no ears” ended up working so there you have it ...

To cap off an interesting adventure, I decided to swing into the Sonic resto that I noticed on the way to the park.  I’ve only ever seen Sonic commercials and wanted to check it out.   So, I ordered from the car and then waited in the car for my Sonic Dog to be delivered.  I mentioned earlier that this is a very windy place ... the wind farms, the sand-blasted cars ... the news report of the 18-wheeler that tipped over on the highway just the day before ... so you’d think then that the shtick of waitresses on roller skates would have been rejected long ago at this particular location.  Well, it hadn’t been and as I sat there watching my server, through the rear-view, make her way across the parking lot, I figured it would all end badly.  And it did ... sort of.  The poor girl was blown violently by a big gust of wind right into the ordering kiosk but, as though she’d been blown around a thousand times before, she didn’t go down or even drop a single thing.  When I asked if she was ok, she responded as though nothing had happened.  Where the hell was I? 

Mount San Jacinto

It’s been a while ...

I was expecting the drive from San Diego to Palm Springs to be barren and desolate.  Just a few abandoned buildings scattered here and there along a lonely highway.

God am I naive.  It’s one town after another ... the entire way.  And they’re all the same.  Boring, sterile, cookie-cutter.  I’m now convinced there are more Home Depots in Southern California than there are McDonalds.  I’m just not sure whether that’s a good or bad thing.

Actually, the towns do dry up, but only when you reach the San Gorgonio Pass Wind Farm.  Seemingly endless rows of wind turbines stretch across the entire valley.   I couldn’t help but think of the Human Farm scene from the Matrix as I was driving through.  It’s as creepy as it is impressive.

I decided to head straight to the Palm Springs Tram instead of hitting up my hotel first.  The ride to the top of Mount San Jacinto is quick and would be quite enjoyable if not for all the tourists who react to the bouncing of the Tram as though they’re on a roller coaster. 

The Tram stops just shy of 9,000ft and once out in the open, that unique California forest smell overwhelmed me.  Perhaps “that smell” can be experienced in Algonquin Park or Temagami, but I certainly haven’t experienced it in any forest I’ve been to across the east of North America.  The air smells, tastes and simply feels thick with the essence of the trees.  I’m pretty sure my dormant allergies would have been brought back to life if I spent any considerable amount of time there.

My first mistake on the run was opening up the trail map and scanning the section on the wildlife of the mountain.  Cougars ... f@ck ... I love running trails and being out in nature, but unfortunately, I have an unbelievable, irrational fear of large clawed animals.  Should I blame Stephen Colbert?  Perhaps, but a cougar ain’t a bear ... 

I met up with one of the Park Rangers to ask about a suitable loop to run and he showed me a nice 4 miler he claimed to run every morning.  I couldn’t help myself and asked him about the cougars.  He reassured me that in his 30 years living in nearby Idyllwild, he had never encountered one.  That calmed me down for 30 seconds or so.

I started out tentatively on the run and within two or three minutes I passed by a few deer calmly grazing away.  That settled me down for 10 seconds or so until it dawned on me that they are a food source.  To say that I went into a bit of a panic would be an understatement.  I was alone ... very alone ... out in nature, not really sure where I was going and feeling like I was at the absolute bottom of the food chain.

Like I said, irrational.

For whatever reason, I kept going.  Looking back, I’m really not sure why?  Besides my parents, I don’t believe I had told anyone I was going to do this run, so no one would be the wiser if I simply went straight back to the Tram and hauled ass into Palm Springs.  That said, simply soldiering on doesn’t always end in a memorable experience.  I honestly don’t remember much other than constantly looking over my shoulder. 

Were the vistas impressive? Don’t know ...

Did the altitude affect me?  Not sure ...

Was I glad when I saw some hikers close to the end of the run?  Hell yes ...

I got off that mountain quickly and looked forward to the next day when I’d be running at Joshua Tree.

Torrey Pines, California

I had totally misjudged the distance between Dallas and San Diego.  

Fortunately, Season 4 of The Wire provided more than enough distraction to make the flight bearable.  As the plane began its descent, the Pilot mentioned something about fires but I was so wrapped up in episode 3, that his comment didn’t really sink in.

When the show was over, I focused my attention on the window.  I’ve always loved flying at night, specifically, seeing the dramatic distinction between urban areas (lights) and rural areas (no lights).  That’s when I saw it to the north-west.  At first, I thought it was just a bright light at the top of one of the many mountains that ring San Diego, but the faint halo soon made me realize that I’d be dealing with fires on this running trip.

So why was I going to run in San Diego?  Well, I was a tag-along of sorts.  A few friends and their families were heading down for a short stay before heading to Disneyland and they asked me to join them.  

Honestly, with all the troubles I had been dealing with, I was extremely uncomfortable with the thought of going and on multiple occasions I tried to convince myself to bail.  The thing is, I had previously bailed on a trip with these same folks and earned myself the nickname “Craigy All-Talk” as a result.  Getting rid of that label and the guilt that went along with it was the main reason I followed through this time.  The secondary, and more important reason, was that these are great people and I’d be guaranteed of a good time.  Finally, San Diego has A LOT of running options and is only a few hours from Joshua Tree which would provide me with my first desert running experience. 

Up first though, Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve.  

The Location

Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve is located a short drive (30mins) north of San Diego and, surprise-surprise, is found immediately beside the popular golf course that shares the same name.  Of significant note, the Reserve is located on the shore of the Pacific Ocean so if you have a thing for water, then look no further.

The Trails

If you are preparing for your next ultra and need to put in a full day of running, you may want to consider other locations.  The trail network at Torrey Pines is not extensive.  Stringing together all of the trails in the Reserve MAY reward you with 5 miles of total effort.   This said, you do have other options to extend your run which I will get to in a bit.  

All of the trails at Torrey Pines are extremely hard packed with thin covering of very granular sand (almost pebbly).  You can leave your trail shoes at home.  A good pair of road shoes will be more than adequate to get you down to the beach and back up again.  As a matter of fact, I must have passed 3 or 4 other runners who were barefoot (I guess that trend isn’t dying afterall ...) and this is probably the best indication of the lack of “technical-ness” of these trails. 

My run started out on the trail heading towards Red Butte.   The trail is relatively flat and served me well for my warm up.  While the Pacific is clearly in view, it seemed distant and detached and my focus remained fixed on the big red rock directly in front of me.

 

Once I reached Red Butte, everything changed.  The sounds and smells of the ocean took over my senses and my adrenaline started to flow.  What’s more, I was finally witness the dramatic geology that makes this location so remarkable.  I was now fully engaged in this run and was completely excited to make my way down to the edge of the bluffs.

 From Red Butte, I chose the Razor Point Trail which would take me to the northern extent of this section of the trail network.  I had read that the Razor Point Trail provided “dramatic views of the gorge” and it didn’t disappoint.  The trail itself winds its way along the edge of the gorge and ends with a tremendous scene.

From Razor Point, I ventured to Yucca Point before doubling back to join the Beach Trail.  The majority of the vertical loss/gain in the reserve (roughly 350 feet) can be experienced on the Beach Trail.  From Red Butte, the trail descends quite quickly down to the shore.   Instead of hitting up the beach at this point, I decided to jump on the Broken Hill Trail and make my way to the Outlook for a moment of reflection and to ponder all that has happened in my life over the past six months.

Unfortunately, the Broken Hill Outlook was a popular destination on this particular day with numerous individuals, tripods and DSLRs.  Self-reflection would have to wait.  No biggie cause at this point, I was simply enjoying life and was looking forward to a cold beer by the pool and chance to play with the kids.

However, before heading back to San Diego, I had to hit up the beach.  As I alluded to earlier, there are options to extend your run at Torrey Pines and, folks, the beach is one of them.   Torrey Pines State Beach isn’t like the fluffy, sandy beaches of the Caribbean.  It’s fairly well packed and doesn’t easily give way, so the experience is closer to running on trails than to running on loose sand.  If you want to add a few more miles to your run, it’s a great option especially with the cliffs to your right, the ocean to your left and Del Mar hiding in the fog in front of you.

Side note - If you’re looking to add even more miles to your run and don’t mind pounding the pavement, consider parking at the main Beach lot and running the road up to the trail head.  The grade and length is certainly challenging and appears to be popular with the local bikers and road runners (both the human and bird variety) alike.

The Summary

At first, I was somewhat put off having to pay $15 to park at the Reserve.  But on second thought, a little cash goes a long way towards protecting these areas and ensuring that we can experience them in the future. 

I cannot say that Torrey Pines has found its way into my list of fave trails (not that such a list even exists yet), however, with its combination of moderate terrain and outstanding scenery it was, without a doubt, a perfect venue to begin my latest running adventure. 

Up next ... 9,000 feet of Mount San Jacinto.

Why am I doing this?

I've asked myself that very question several times today.

Truth is, I'm a extremely introverted individual and social media is just not my thing.  Facebook annoys me, Twitter is a means to an end and I honestly have no interest with things like Instagram, Pinterest et al ...

So why am I creating a blog?

Because I am a runner.

Running is my passion.  Running motivates me.  Running keeps me sane. 

I think back to my short running history and realize that I've experienced many things over the years, but those experiences are just distant and vague memories.  And while those experiences would be highly unremarkable to most, they are important to me because they've helped define who I am. 

So, my initial intent with this blog is simple - to capture/document my running experiences so that I can reflect back to see who I was, where I came from and where I'm heading.  Essentially, this is my personal journal which I'm making available for anyone to see. 

I'm not currently intending to promote this blog or even tell my friends, team mates or my coach about it.  After-all, it wouldn't surprise me in the slightest if this ends up being my first and last post. Only time will tell ...

Craig